The journey north

Documenting struggle and determination on migration routes in the Americas

A child sits behind his mother who is crouching down on a bench after crossing the Darién Gap.

People arrive exhausted in the indigenous community of Bajo Chiquito after crossing the jungle. Panama 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

Alert is a biannual magazine published by Doctors Without Borders/Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF-USA) that features ground reporting from our work around the world. This article appears in the Summer 2024 issue (Vol. 25, no. 1), Connecting Threads: Displacement, Conflict, and the Human Stories That Link Us.

Content warning: This article includes references to sexual violence.

The 19,000-mile Pan-American Highway runs from Argentina to Alaska, uninterrupted but for a stretch of dense jungle between Colombia and Panama known as the Darién Gap. For 66 miles, there are no roads—only treacherous forest, cliffs, rivers, and muddy swamps. Despite the risks, thousands of people attempt this crossing every day on their long journey north to seek a better life.

Migrants travel through Ecuador, Colombia and Panama.
People on the move crossing through Ecuador, Colombia, and Panama. 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

In recent years, Doctors Without Borders/Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) staff in Mexico have cared for people fleeing conflict, poverty, and repression in countries throughout the Americas, including Venezuela and Haiti, but also from as far away as Africa, Asia, and the Middle East. Their journeys are typically long and complex, with many stops, multiple modes of transportation, frequent roadblocks, and detours, with limited to nonexistent access to health care along the way. Often lacking any protection from authorities, migrants, refugees, and asylum seekers are uniquely vulnerable to violence and abuse.

While our teams continue to work in Mexico and other locations along migration routes, Panamanian authorities forced MSF to suspend medical activities in the country in March 2024. On average, our teams provided physical and psychological care to nearly 5,000 people a month at two clinics, with an emphasis on caring for survivors of sexual violence

Migrants pray while waiting for the sunrise to enter the Darién jungle between Colombia and Panama.
Migrants pray before embarking on the Darién jungle route. 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

MSF helps people on the move along the migration routes in Mexico and in areas of Central and South America. Our teams in Mexico treat survivors of sexual and gender-based violence, people targeted for their sexuality or gender identity, families whose children were pressured to join criminal organizations, and people driven to escape extreme poverty. We provide or connect many patients with basic medical and mental health care services. For a smaller number of people who have survived torture or extreme violence, we provide longer-term care, including specialized medical and mental health treatment and social services, at our Comprehensive Care Center, known as El CAI, in Mexico City. 

Once people reach Mexico’s northern border with the United States, they often end up stranded in tents or shelters in dangerous border cities, at risk of violence and extortion at the hands of gangs as they wait for weeks or months for a chance to legally enter the US. MSF also cares for people waiting to apply for asylum at the border, and in Mexico City. Our teams across the region witness every day what people on the move face on their journeys.

Tents in the dark in the Darién jungle
Sheltering in tents in the jungle. 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

"We crossed the jungle looking for a better future—not for our lives to end. A snake does not end your life. Your life is ended by the men inside the jungle who rape and kill."

— Suzie*, Venezuela
Migrants in transit in Ecuador, Colombia and Panama
Crossing the Turquesa River at the Lajas Blancas Migrant Reception Station. 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

"They find people dead—pregnant women are found floating in the water, dead. A man in my group had a seizure and died and we had to abandon his body. There is a lot of robbery in that jungle too. They kidnap people, they charge US $100 per person, and if a woman doesn't pay, they rape her."

— Emilady, Venezuela
Migrants cross a river in the Darien Gap
More children and families are among people migrating in the Americas. 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

"They find people dead—pregnant women are found floating in the water, dead. A man in my group had a seizure and died and we had to abandon his body. There is a lot of robbery in that jungle too. They kidnap people, they charge US $100 per person, and if a woman doesn't pay, they rape her."

— Emilady, Venezuela
A migrant carries a child in a backpack as he crosses the Darién jungle between Colombia and Panama.
The profile of migrants has grown increasingly vulnerable. Panama 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF
2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

"In Peru, we were going to get on a tractomula [a double-trailer truck] and a man on it tried to hurt us with a knife. Then in Ecuador, we were sleeping in a park, and a police officer woke us up with pepper spray to make us get up from there."

— Luis, Venezuela
An MSF tented health facility in Panama, near the Darién Gap.
MSF's clinic at the Lajas Blancas Migrant Reception Station. Panama 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

"From Peru, I caught a bus that took me to Huaquillas, in Ecuador. There, some men took 10 of us and stole all our money. They made the women undress. They also took our phones and told us that if we said anything, they would kill us. They had knives and guns."

— David, Colombian-Venezuelan via Peru
A migrant waits by the side of the road with his belongings in Colombia
Pedro came from Peru to Colombia but is now stranded. He doesn't know whether to return to Venezuela or try to get to the United States. 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

"The Darién jungle is the worst thing I have experienced in my life. I wouldn't wish it on anyone. We climbed too many cliffs. All our fingers are peeling with bloody sores. At a waterfall, after we had passed by, a man died."

— Keiber, Venezuela
A migrant carries a small child with another beside him as he crosses the Darién Gap between Colombia and Panama.
Half a million people have crossed the Darién Gap this year—more than double the number of people who crossed in the whole of 2022. 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

"We were kidnapped, and that's when the worst started. They took us to a house where they separated us into men and women. We had to stand because there was no room for more people. At night some men came and took only the women out of the house. They raped us continually, one after another. They had no mercy."

— Camila*, Nicaragua
Women in a shelter for migrants after crossing the Darién Gap.
From January to October 2023, MSF provided 51,500 medical and nursing consultations in Darién, Panama. 2023 © Juan Carlos Tomasi/MSF

"Many of us had everything we needed. But suddenly found ourselves with nothing but a little bag of dreams to hold onto as we seek to work and rebuild our lives."

— Francis, Venezuela

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Alert magazine: Summer 2024

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